100% authentic products & official reseller for :
creed, maison francis kurkdjian, kilian paris, marc antoine barrois
Scientific interview with François Canac
How did the discovery of the oyster's powers come about?
It all started with a long journey to the oyster beds of Cap Ferret, where I took part in the hard work of an oyster farmer and observed the cultivation and breeding methods used. It's the fruit of shared knowledge, observation and intuition between a cosmetology engineer and an oyster farmer, his knowledge of oysters, my knowledge of skin and my experience in cosmetics. The shellfish lives under daily stress, with or without water, highly variable temperatures, bacteria or viruses... In this environment, they have set up mechanisms to defend, protect and develop themselves. Understanding these mechanisms has led to the discovery of new active ingredients for cosmetics. From these intuitions came bibliography, reading and exchanges with researchers (Ifremer, CNRS). A change in professional life enabled us to commit fully to the project, to create the appropriate structure with a company director who joined us... And so we set off on our adventure. The first tests on skin cell culture were so promising that we decided to go ahead with the patent. In addition, with the director of the CNRS (Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique), we discovered two unlisted proteins, which will be the subject of further research.
What are its effects on the body and skin?
Oysters have a high nutritional value, which we wanted to transpose to the skin. The shellfish and its extract are capable of protecting the epidermis against the aggressions of sun, cold and wind, but also of slowing skin aging and repairing damage caused by time.
What process did you use to create the oyster extract?
We looked at several processes. We opted for a chemical hydrolysis process, which showed the best results in tests on skin cell cultures in particular.
How is it incorporated into your skincare products?
My meeting with the head of the laboratory we work with was decisive for the formulation of our products, as it led to the use of a new formulation technology based on modified clay. Known generically as "pickering emulsion", the emulsion is created by cold mechanical action. This ensures that the active ingredients are not degraded, and that the controversial products regularly found in cosmetic formulas are not used. What's more, in this emulsion mode, the active ingredients are in a way encapsulated, protected and gradually released. Last but not least, the lamellar construction of this formulation enables it to protect the stratum corneum for a given period of time, like a "second skin".
What other active ingredients have you combined it with?
To enhance and broaden the action of our edulis oyster extract, we have combined it with other active ingredients such as desert date palm oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, seaweed extract and moringa oil.