He made his debut in 1973 working as a chemist for Chanel. Since, and through numerous collaborations, he has constructed his very own signature touch, which combines creativity and singularity. He’s inclined to exigency and he takes pleasure in a good tête-à-tête. In this interview for Nose, Maurice Roucel looks back on his forty-year career.

What is your motto?

“Effort through patience.” I used to do triathlons!

What is your oldest olfactory memory?

The memory is from Cherbourg (Lower Normandy) in 1950, I’m 4 or 5 years old, and I remember the smell of French fries on the summer beach.

What is the most important thing that you learned from Henri Robert at Chanel when you started your career in 1973?

I was 22 years old and passionate about chemistry, which is concurrently organic and synthetic. He was 74 years old and had hired me to set up a chromatography atelier - a huge innovation at the time. He gave me absolute freedom during 6 years. I installed the laboratory, I changed the equipment, and I set up the techniques for controlling the concentrates - the raw material! I learned that you have to have faith in people.

What is your favourite aspect of niche perfumery?

Perfumery is all about the message. To work closely with a client, and if possible, with a woman. I’m very exigent, and I like working with people who have the same level of exigency as myself. It’s a way of working - the quality of a scent is not just based on the price of the raw materials. It’s is the way that you work those material that is important. Exceptional perfumery allows talented people to come together and work with a high level of exigency and a qualitative approach.

Which is your favourite ingredient to work with and why? Is it the magnolia (michelia longifolia)?

I was the first person to use it. Monique Rémy introduced me to the Michelia essential oil. It’s a scent that travels, and Monique discovered it in China. I had to use it in tiny doses to begin with, and I then increased the dose progressively while also being very prudent not to stifle the perfume or the raw material. The first time I used it was for Tocade de Rochas.

What are the main qualities to be found in a good perfume maker?

At Trocadéro in Paris, one of the walls reads : “only the artist feels created, he creates as he breaths.” For me, this quote primarily evokes that a perfumer must master the technique to exercise the profession while staying open-minded and curious. To become an excellent perfumer two inner qualities are required, both of which are qualities that can’t be taught : creativity and passion.