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Interview with M. Frédéric Malle
Frédéric Malle comes from a famous family of manufacturers, artists and perfumers. Inspired by the artistic sensitivity of his family and willing to give perfumers the freedom that was denied to them by big companies, Frédéric Malle launched his own fragrance brand in 2000. He therefore stood out as a pioneer in olfactory creation: by offering carte blanche to the greatest perfumers of our time, he showcases the universe of each one.
What is your motto?
Always be myself.
How did you acquire knowledge in perfumery?
I was born in it.
When did you decide to create your brand? Where and when did it happen?
Visiting for the first time a perfumery on Champs-Elysees, I realized that fragrances, intended as an artistic and intimate expression, were gradually dying. There was no other solution other than creating the Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle as an antidote against the trivialization of our profession.
Do you have any anecdotes concerning these two creations of yours?
Portrait of a Lady
Originally, I created a men’s fragrance, Géranium pour Monsieur, inspired by my father’s minty and peppery Botot water placed on the edge of the sink. An eau de toilette that is now worn by close friends with a father similar to mine. These witty and elegant men of the 20th century wearing color shirts and well-cut suits…
I wanted to find the feminine version of Geranium for Monsieur, the woman who could potentially be loved by this man. She has the look of Dovima, the elephant woman photographed by Richard Avedon, the arms of Loulou de la Falaise, covered with heavy golden bracelets. She is powerful, generous, seductive.
I work with the perfumer Dominique Ropion, just like a publisher collaborates with a writer. At first, there is an idea, then you have to push it as far as possible, stick to it. Without making things too easy or fast. Then we may change, say "no, it's not that", then work for six months and realize that we were wrong. But those six months were necessary to “open the right door.”
Music for a While
When I work with perfumers, an inspiration already becomes a fragrance by itself. This time it was a very interesting lavender accord that Carlos had shown me years before. As a European, I immediately thought about the lavender bags, typical of southern France, which are delightful but difficult to transpose. In contrast, the accord that Carlos had shown me was both simple and daring, and turned things around. It mixed lavender with patchouli and vanilla notes, then we added some amber and the fragrance became all of a sudden sensual.
What is your favorite music? Why?
I do not have a favorite fragrance or favorite painting or favorite music. However, I spend my time smelling, watching, listening. The music can be Bach or Mozart just as The Rolling Stones.
Why do you consider your latest creation "Music for a while" baroque?
Because I find that oriental fragrances are to this profession what the baroque is to architecture.