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Marie Salamagne
Marie was born in 1977 in Paris. She attented medical school before deciding she wanted to work in the world of perfumery. She graduated from the ISIPCA perfumery school and she worked at Firmenich since 2001.
What is your motto?
I often say that “what is done you don’t do over”. I live in the moment!
What is your oldest olfactory memory?
I have several. My parents were anaesthetists and I clearly remember the mix of etheric products and their perfumes that I’d smell when they hugged me. I also remember the smell of the milk I had when I was very small. Because of my lactose allergy, I was given an elaborate milk substitute, which was sugary with hints of vanilla and cereals. Another of my oldest memories is the smell of gouache - my grandmother painted.
You used to study medicine. How did you decide to become a perfumer?
Yes, I started off with medicine, but I’ve always been infatuated with scents and odours. When I failed the competitive examination for my medicine studies at 19-20 years old I branched on to chemistry and found out about the IPSICA [Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, de la Cosmétique et de l'Aromatique Alimentaire - a school for post-graduate studies in perfume, cosmetics products and food flavour formulation]. The elements that would allow me to become a perfumer were already there, but not yet in the right order. The perfume school catalysed these factors; my love for scents and odours combined with my more scientific side. Starting to study medicine brought me a lot because of the tenacity and obstinacy you need in order to “survive” the first year in medical school. It’s a very tough environment that builds character; you often fail, and it’s important to not get discouraged but to get back in the game. It’s great training for a future perfumer!
What are your favourite raw materials, and why?
A lot of wood, balsamic notes, ambergris, and iris; materials and textures with strong characters. I also have a weak spot for patchouli. I like these materials because they are multifaceted and each one is a perfume in itself. They’re not easy to use, and that is what makes them so interesting.
Do you give your fragrances a signature of your own?
I can’t describe what my signature is, but people often tell me that my creations are salty and mineral. I don’t find that notion weird; it’s something that resonates quite well with me.
You have created Beach Walk and Flower Market for Maison Margiela. What was specifically “Maison Margiela” about these two fragrances?
The work consists in capturing a moment of life; a smell that brings back a memory, to find that primary meaning without bringing in too many abstract considerations. It was important that anyone should be able to detect their own “madeleine de Proust”, that little spark that brings back a memory of things past.