A bit like the French New Wave of cinema, which shook up the quiet of the 7th art, a handful of designer brands are shaking up the laws of a globalized perfume industry that tends to standardize its proposals to please consumers living in New York, Tokyo, Paris or São Paulo. Creators of rarities, these new aesthetes breathe new creative air by reinventing textures, notes, and accords, daring to summon raw materials of character that have sometimes fallen into disuse. Among the most striking compositions of these rebellious noses, we have selected a few small creative bombs that will delight perfume lovers in search of wonder and disruption.
Reliqvia - Unum
Underground artist, virtuoso and iconoclastic jack-of-all-trades, Filippo Sorcinelli could be satisfied with being one of Pope Francis' tailors. But his mysticism permeates his creation, even in his dark and baroque perfumes, which are imbued with a rare spirituality. Finally returning to the sacred sources of perfume, he signs a tribute to the little church of the Cross, in Senigallia, in the province of Ancona, with this powerful combination of incense, precious wood and blackcurrant bud that lasts on the skin for an eternity.
Ganymede - Marc-Antoine Barrois
Ganymede is first of all a planet orbiting Jupiter, rough, rocky but full of water ice. It was named after a hero of the Illiad, a mortal of extraordinary beauty, so attractive that he attained the rank of immortal. The translation of this exceptional being is a leather (necessarily), olfactory marker of audacity, but a leather that is not quite one, soft, angelic, infinitely supple, illuminated by the smile of the mandarin. A divine, intriguing and terribly seductive leathery accord.
Bois d'Ascèse - Naomi Goodsir
The Australian milliner is a new troublemaker in the world of perfumery with an unbridled imagination, this time inspired by a chapel nestled in the hills of New South Wales, a state in southeast Australia. The eccentricity of the designer is expressed by this note of burnt wood that extends to the sky a cloud of incense from Somalia to which mingle scents of peated whiskey as a tribute to the secular sacred. An act of pure creation, without reference, out of fashion and codes.
C.G Vouloir Etre Ailleurs - Parfums d'Orsay
Lost innocence has finally found its fragrant translation. This soft-spoken floral-green with generous inflections of lime, honey and cut hay is the most beautiful evocation of the sweet carefree spirit of adolescence and first love. Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti imagined this luminous interlude in memory of a golden age that we would like to see perpetuated, first under the name of Tilleul, a classic reissued under the more mysterious name of Vouloir être ailleurs C.G.
Radical Rose - Matière Première
Born in Grasse, Aurélien Guichard is the only perfumer to own his own fields and to produce his centifolia rose. It was only natural that he would one day make a perfume from it. As a tribute to the land of his childhood, the perfumer-creator wanted Radical Rose to concentrate the largest quantity of May rose absolute in the world. As its name suggests, this composition is intended to be a total rose, hyper-realistic, a hyper-rose, in other words a kind of rose in augmented reality with amazing spicy and amber facets.