Interview with Ralf Schwieger, author of several major perfumes like ‘Fils de Dieu’ - Etat Libre d’Orange, ‘Orange Sanguine’ and ‘Vanille insensée’ - Atelier Cologne.

What is your motto?

Ralf : "I have never had a motto!"

What are your oldest olfactory recollections?

Ralf : "I do not know but the question reminds me of a flowery bush I associate with my first rather innocent sexual encounters as a child, playing doctor… I do not know the species but it has a rather animalic, heady scent, slightly urinous - I have to investigate…"

You left Berlin at 30-year-old and went to Grasse to become a perfumer, why?

Ralf : "After school I was undecided what to study: science (anything: medicine, biochemistry, astronomy…) or art (fine arts, jewelry)? I was a little intimidated by fine arts and the prospect of submitting a portfolio of works so I opted for the more scholarly sciences, chemistry first, then a specialization in fragrance chemistry already with the idea in mind to work in fine fragrances and to express myself somewhat artistically."

Who is the most inspiring perfumer for you?

Ralf : "Edmond Roudnitska, the perfumer of Enlightenment but as well Germaine Cellier for her audacious and still modern creations."

Which raw materiels do you like the most and why?

Ralf : "I like methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate, it works well on skin and is very diffusive, it is a well known raw material but I mention it as I have to force myself to not always use it... otherwise I like certain impact chemicals, often found in trace amounts in nature, some are living a silent life on the perfumer’s shelf and are waiting to be kissed to life."

Where did you find the inspiration for ‘Fils de Dieu’ - Etat Libre d’Orange, ‘Orange Sanguine’ and ‘Vanille insensée’ - Atelier Cologne?

Ralf :" ‘Fils de Dieu’ has a split personality and as it is known as well under ‘Philippine Houseboy’; it was conceived while watching ‘Reflections in a Golden Eye’ by John Huston and ‘Masahista’ by Brilliante Mendoza.

‘Orange Sanguine’ is the answer to Sylvie Ganter’s and Christophe Cervasel’s challenge to come up with a ‘Cologne Absolue’, a concentrated ‘Eau de Cologne’: sweet, tart and proud to wear its bloody color

 ‘Vanille Insensée’ has nothing to do with incense but is an insanely concentrated vanilla, a little dark (one might detect an overdose of a material I mentioned above) and an ode to the vanilla pod in all its phenolic splendor"