"For a long time, the lily of the valley didn't exist in perfumery. Or to be precise, the "real" one, tangible, and for people that love to leave behind a scent, the scent of this flower couldn't be extracted neither by distilling nor extraction. It fell into the category of "silent" flowers, very odorant but too fragile to be able to bottle easily. A great deception for all composers of fragrances that would have loved to capture "Tinker Bell", even if it was only once.
And then in 1908, it all changed with a beautiful molecule that changed everything: l'hydroxycitronellal. A note that recalls this flower, the real one, that we pick delicately, blooming, in the shades of the sun, a sunday in April, during a walk in the forest and not the one we offer to our mother in the morning a 1st of May (that doesn't smell even if we stick our nose within the flower)." An extract from the book "Esprit de Synthèse" by Lionel Paillès.
In contemporary perfumery, there are natural and synthetic notes. The synthetic notes are those that have been formulated entirely by humans (so not in a natural way, flower, plant etc). They have been used for more than a century in a majority of the perfumes that we know nowadays.
Thanks to synthetic molecules, it's possible to capture a natural odour that is instable, impossible to create or even a protected species. These notes also add a larger scope to the creation of perfumes and can reveal new scents.
The perfumer, the nose, can hold onto a known ingredient, can be carried away by a surprise and give in to pure emotion...that of discovery.
The founder of ÆTHER, Nicolas Chabot wishes to pay a tribute to synthetic molecules with a collection of 5 perfumes with 100% synthetic notes.
ETHER OXYDE — From a distance, far away, it could ressemble a fresh and beautiful contemporary wood. But if you smell closely there's a vague and weird "ether accord" (ETHYL ACETATE), a kind of soft steam, that runs over the skin like a breeze of burning wood (AMBROXAN, ISO E SUPER®).
CITRUS ESTER — A phantom energy, luminous (GRAPEFRUIT METHYL) and welcoming, tainted with a soft scent of fruit (FIRASCONE®, RHUBAFURANE®).
MUSKETHANOL — The troubling impression of sand that has become almost abstract. Iron, futuristic sand, almost from another world (CETALOX®, MUSCONE®).
CARBONEUM — A weird "neoprene"accord (BENZOATE DE METHYL, SUEDÉRAL, TIMBÉROL). We even smell a rough foamy texture (GLOBANONE®).
ROSE ALCANE — A beatiful flower in a leather skin (ROSE OXYDE, OXANE®). A rose for men and women that are not crazy about roses but don't hate them either. The miracles of chemistry transform, right under their nose, a very fresh rose bud into a metallic flower.