Almond is known for its sweetness. In perfumery, it brings roundness to olfactory accords. From where does this roundness come from?

Almonds presents an accord that can be founded in several notes: vanilla, resin, tonka bean, heliotropin, acetophenone, aldéhyde anise… Its roundness comes from its association with gourmand notes of resin, tonka bean. If we add maltol, a sweet note, we obtain a scent evoking grilled almond. Almond has a gustatory side, but also a soft texture that can be felt under the tongue.

Heliotropin, vanilla, tonka bean, aldehydes and leather have almond facets making us relive childhood memories, like a Proust Madeleine. Why is almond so regressive?

Almond has a true regressive dimension because it calls upon childhood memories, snack times during which we taste cakes baked by our grandmother for instance. Almond accord is reinsuring, comforting, it brings us back to happy moments , with family. It also reminds of school, because heliotropin has the scent of glue, and glue also has an almond smell.

What is your first childhood memory associated to almond notes?

It’s Marzipankulgen, typical German cakes tasted during Christmas, with almond paste. it also reminds me of a memory of my holidays in Italy, where I enjoyed amaretto and Marsala sauce, but also the small almond biscuit going with coffee.

How would you revisit this accord today, in a contemporary way?

Almond notes are very trendy today. I like to revisit them by twisting them with balsam fir, giving them the burned sweet side of caramel, for a both sweet and dry effect. I also use maltol, to add a sweet side.

What is the spectrum/the olfactory sequence of almond notes?

It depends. Almond notes can have the dry side of bitter almond that we instantly feel. They can also evolve: first, we smell the scent of glue, then a more fruity, juicy touch, to end on the sweeter, animal and musk side of almond. This evolution can be different depending on the persons, because the « landscapes » evoked by almond notes are very linked to olfactory memories.

How is almond essence extracted in perfumery?

Essential oil of bitter almond is obtained by water vapor extraction of the apricot kernel amandons, whereas sweet almond’s one is obtained by water vapor extraction of the almond kernel.